What we wear defines our personality. Our pride, our status, our class. Our dressing becomes the first impression even before we speak. And if our first impression is enhanced by a stitched suit, there is nothing like it and the one who knows this is our tailor at hand. The best mind behind the cuts and stitches, the measures and the hems, he knows it all. He is the one who knows our style inside out, literally. We readily give ourselves in his hands, so to speak because they are masters of needle and tailoring is their art.
Tailoring is not something that can be done by anyone and everyone. It is a painstaking process of learning, understanding and exploring. It is a never ending development of ideas, execution and display. India has been creatively involved in the art of tailoring but this art bas been receding. Britain is one region which is at the helm of tailoring and is been hailed as the primary connoisseur of tailoring. Their standard of tailoring is immensely placed at a supreme level. Savile Row, is a first of its kind tailoring giant who have carved its imminent superiority by sheer panache and stylized elan. Based in the heart of London, it is one same that identifies with class of tailoring and remains at the helm of supreme stitch and wear comfort zone. M. N. Rao undoubtedly is the one, at par with Savile Row.
Keeping in terms with the art, our very own M N. Rao from Mumbai, is known to re-energize tailoring Legacy of M. N. Rao continues from the British era and is now beginning to make its own course by renovating and restyling tailoring in their own way. Even though tailoring is common in India it has not gained the high caliber it is supposed to have. People are still ignorant about the intricacies and skill of tailoring. M. N. Rao tailor wants to erase this misconception and introduce the masses to a new, exemplary mode of tailoring that is way too ahead of ready-to-wear industry. For those who see tailoring not as mere profession but as a religion, are the ones who commit themselves towards its rich heritage.
Mr. M N Rao is the pioneer of tailoring in Mumbai and under the judicious guidance of Late Mr. A. K. Hangal India’s noted film artist who was also one of the finest & authentic master tailor he developed a keen insight in tailoring that made him a name to reckon for. Following his legacy are his two sons, Mr. Vinayak & Mr. Madhusudan Rao. Such is their love for tailoring that their work is in demand regularly and consistently by A-list politicians, business tycoons, aristocrats and entertainment industry. Their work, eye – for detail and precision in customized suit delivery, is the fundamental reason why M. N. Rao is so proudly the known name in such circles. Under his keen eye, Mr. Hangal helped M. N. Rao understand intricacies of taloring (Year 1972). But they don’t want to stop here, they are seeking new possibilities, new endeavors wherein tailoring will be given the standard of class & finesse. They want this art to be passed on to new & fresh talents by Teaching out. As such they have the quest and thirst to know more about tailoring and its magic.
VINAYAK RAO, OWNER, M.N.RAO
A professional pattern-drafter for over 30 years, Vinayak Rao heads the prestigious brand, MN Rao. A Savile Row-certified master tailor, he gives the best fits to his customers, while giving back to the community. He is also a professor at SNDT College and was a judge at the Federation of Asian Master Tailors Congress. It was a golden opportunity for Vinayak to network and share his experiences in the industry, along with exchanging ideas and innovations. Their new showroom at Kemps Corner simply proves to be a new era for tailoring.
When Savile Row’s finest recognizes India’s finest master tailor…
Having 25 years of experience in tailoring and gaining mastery in cutting, Mr. Vinayak Rao took a course with one of the finest hands in tailoring, Professor Andrew Ramroop OBE, Founder and Principal of Savile Row Academy. London. Professor Ramroop took the first course on spreading the secrets of Britain’s finest tailoring in India. Andrew Ramroop bas over 40 years of experience working with Savile Row, the home of bespoke tailoring. And this is what he had to say about Mr. Vinayak Rao, “We have many people in different fields of endeavor. Some are good, some are talented and some are outstanding. The outstanding matriculate to the top and represent their country. They win awards and become inspirational leaders. Having had the opportunity to teach Vinayak Rao, I am impressed by his outstanding ability and appetite for learning new skills, all in an effort to give his client a better service. I make this comment especially as he is an experienced tailor Mr. Rao has followed the path of professionalism by updating himself.”
THE COMPLETE ANATOMY OF A BESPOKE SUIT
The word bespoke derives from the verb bespeak, to speak for something, in the specialized meaning of “to give order for it to be made.” Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so differs from ready-to-wear, which is factory made in finished condition and standardized sizes, and from made to measure, which is produced to order from an adjusted block pattern.
A suit is one of the most powerful items of clothing that a person can wear. Not only does it give the wearer an immense boost in self-confidence, but it makes the wearer look smart and pulled together in an instant. Purchasing a bespoke suit is probably one of the biggest clothing investments that someone can make. And yet, so many people have no idea what actually goes into the design of a bespoke suit!
In today’s blog post, we are doing a deep dive into the anatomy of a bespoke suit, focusing on features that can be customized to your taste. After all, a great suit is the grand sum of its parts. Whilst the suit must look attractive as a whole, each part must look fantastic individually too.
TYPES OF SUIT
A slim cut suit fits close to the body with a higher waist and armholes for a more streamlined silhouette. This style is most likely to flatter those with very slim body types and whilst it is a popular style right now, it will not necessarily stand the test of time like a typical fitted suit would.
A classic cut suit is exactly what the name suggests. It is a timeless, elegant style with more room over the body. This cut is ideal for those who have a more conservative style of dressing or those who like their clothing to be more comfortable and roomy. Interestingly, the trends from London Men’s Fashion week suggest that this is the direction that men’s tailoring is heading!
A fitted cut suit is a happy medium between the two styles above. It is not overly slimline, yet it has a contemporary cut that neatly contours your body. This is a style that will flatter most people’s body types and will look stylish for many years to come.
The vital components that go into A HANDMADE BESPOKE SUIT
We have taken the time to break down and explain our process to give you a better understanding of the time and detail that goes into creating a bespoke suit.
Body Canvas – Made from the finest camel hair, it’s available in many different weights, contents and textures. The canvas is used to construct the chest area of the suit jacket. We use the softest, lightest weight canvas on the market for a more luxurious feel.
Domette (breast felt) – Made from 100% cotton, this is the final part in the construction of the chest, which also gives the coat a soft feel.
Lapthair – Made from horse hair, Lapthair is a very stiff and course fabric. It is these characteristics that help to keep shape to the chest of a bespoke jacket.
Collar Canvas – Made from extremely stiff linen, the collar canvas is used to form the shaping of the one-piece collar. For ready to wear and factory made to measure you must have a two piece collar (seam inside) because only craft tailors are able to shrink and shape the collar.
Under Collar Melton – Made from 100% wool, this is also used to construct the collar and is visible if you were to lift the collar up. It is always cut on the bias to help stretch and go round the collar without the collar puckering up.
Sleeve head wadding – Made from foam, cotton, viscose and goats hair, this is placed and sewn into the crown of the sleeve to give the crown a “roped” look; a very common look with fully hand tailored bespoke suits.
Shoulder Pads – Made from a viscose & cotton. Shoulder pads come in a variety of thicknesses, depending on the client’s shape we will determine what is used. For instance someone with square shoulders would require a thin pad, whereas someone with sloping shoulders would require a thicker pad to add shape back in.
Silesia – Made from 100% cotton, silesia comes in a variety of weights and colours. Silesia is used for all the pockets on the inside of both the jacket and trousers.
Banroll – Made from 100% cotton, banroll is placed inside the waistband of the trousers. The stiff finish adds a sharp look and stops the waistband from rolling over.
Linings – They are all sewn in by hand using the best quality viscose, satin or bemberg.
Buttons – They are either made in natural horn or real mother of pearl with buttonholes hand made from pure silk thread also fiber and wooden buttons are used.
Threads – Gutermann thread, Horse canvas, Imported fusing.
Why buy Bespoke?
Ultimately there are only two reasons to buy bespoke: for the fit and for the quality,” says Savile Row tailor Steven Hitchcock. “If they’re not things that interest you, or you want something instantaneously, bespoke isn’t for you. But if they are, you won’t be disappointed. You can just tell a bespoke suit, even if, on the surface, it’s just a plain blue suit. That’s because it’s been made for you and not for 50,000 people kind of like you.”
WHERE TO BUY A BESPOKE SUIT IN MUMBAI :
M.N.RAO’s BESPOKE SUIT – A SUIT THAT FITS!
A business that aims to break the high prices of most bespoke tailoring. A Suit That Fits may raise eyebrows among tailoring cognoscenti, but is certainly making a better fit more accessible.